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Graduate Fashion Week

As you should already knew, the Graduate Fashion Week is taking place on the 10th to the 13th of June in London at the Earls Court Two.  Funding by George at Asda (with others) this is the most famous event for Fashion Student in the United-Kingdom. 40 universities will take part of this event,  but only 15 will be on the catwalk. Even around the world, this is a rare case to have that kind of event for students, they will be able to win Famous awards (from McQueen, …) and meet some important people in the fashion industry, in which network is the key-word.

“We have the most exceptional design talent coming out of our Colleges here in the UK and I salute their energy, their talent and their well earned and deserved global reputation.”
Christopher Bailey, Burberry Creative Director

During the event, WGSN which the official trend partner of the GFW will give a seminar about macro-trends “to drive the fashion design” for the AW/13-14 collection. There is a link to the registration page.  The magazine Company is also looking for 8 students to “guest-edit” the October issue. The only thing that you have to do is to write a trend-report on the AW12 and to send it to this e-mail gfw@company.co.uk.

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The S/S14 just happened in Milan, and it was time for Prada to show its new collection, was it going to be like the two lasts show, where shadows and mysteries incensed the catwalk? No, this time Miuccia smashed the front row with colours and a pop-art touch that you cannot deny.  She is an artist even though through her life she went through a more casual way of thinking by acting for the communist party in Milan. We find the whole pop-art panel mix, no faded colours, but strong and living ones, each colour has its own complementary colour, red/green, blue/yellow if it is not on one piece it will be on the whole outfit. 
That is it, each new catwalk is a brand new world set up by Miuccia, involving artists and architects in backstage to make it complete, the most important one is Ippolito Pestellini Laparelli, she makes a new world to allow her new pieces to live in their own world, that makes the piece :

“It is a very osmotic process: we start identifying the stage and set design at the same moment the design team start the identification of the collection. We begin with a workshop of creative thinking where we explore the concept of the show, and from then on it is an eight to ten week process of back and forth.” – I.P.Laparelli

Few elements can remind us our beloved designer, Raf Simons, he is a real fan of Miuccia’s work, she is an inspiration for him, that is why we may find some relative element in both Dior and Prada colour’s panel, pink, purple, green and blue they are all also well-used by Simons.
Another thing would be the use of high-socks to get an outfit a bit more sporty and to counter the idea of the classic luxury in this business, allowing Miuccia to play more with colours. Look at the ribbons, which gives, along the sporty touch, a comfy feeling about this luxurious collection, more casual and relax than the cold luxurious standard view that we can have of Prada and others. 

Mr.Rizzo is the stylist of Miuccia, he is, therefore, putting the garnments together, I would say, he brings them to life on one body, walking around the new world especially made for them. These pieces are extremely difficult to match and mix with a basic wardrobe, but you can play with it and have a lot of fun if you can follow the côté-décalé of this pop-Italian line.

Slimane’s wrath

It is not the first nor the last but still a pretty big player in the game which has been isolated; Colette has been hit by Slimane’s wrath in the face, and it is going to hurt, very very badly. Hedi decided to blacklisted Collette from their retailer, the “famous” store which made its own name (except apart being a good designers boutique) by surfing on the hype wave with streetwear brands like Supreme combined to a small stock marketing. Recently joined by random tees worn by celebrities like Cara Delevingne or others, copying luxurious brand but through a poor label and a poor headline. They (we do not talk about early-adopters here haha) wear it to be “in” the movement, teasing the Haute-Couture’s sphere of the Haute-Couture, because they want to play with the lions, they want to show them that they are wearing their brand but in another way that the designers want it.
Obviously they (here, Colette) were also selling luxurious brand like Kenzo, Raf Simons and others, and this mix of junk-fashion and Haute-Couture messed up, for some reason you cannot really play with the HC as you want, it has its own rules that you have to follow, otherwise you’re not just being a rebel, you’re becoming a fool and a cheeky reseller (even though respect is a luxe nowadays).  There comes the punishment, Hedi took his decision, kicking Colette out the list, and starting to re-give to the whole Haute-Couture its rights, and to decide if you can do what you want with it or not. Hedi, here, is just doing his job, re-affirming himself, he is not where he is now just by luck, he earned it. This kind of junk-fashion gives also the possibility for everyone to be “in” the move, even if they do not know anything about the house, yes it is French, yes it is Yves Saint Laurent, and then? Ah yeah, then nothing, it is trendy so why would I not wear it “I want to fit in”, quote from American Psycho, that is exactly what is happening here, they just want to fit in, even though they look like idiots. I cannot wait to see some more Ghesquière/Marc Jacobs/Simons related shitty headlines.

Ce n’est pas la première fois, ni la dernière fois que cela arrive mais un gros joueur a été mit sur la touche; Colette s’est prit la colère de Slimane en pleine face et ça va faire mal, très très mal. Hedi a décidé de blacklisté Colette de leurs revendeurs, la fameuse boutique qui s’est fait son nom (à part le fait que c’était une bonne boutique de vêtement de designers) en surfant sur la vague de hype autour des marques streetwear comme Supreme mélangé avec un marketing pratiquant un stock assez léger. Récemment rejoints par des t-shirts portés par des célébrités comme Cara Delevingne et d’autres, copiant les marques grandes maisons mais à travers un label très pauvre et souvent un slogan assez décevant. La masse (ne parlons pas d’early-adopters s’il vous plaît haha) les porte pour être “in”, provoquant la sphère de la Haute-Couture, parce que ils veulent aussi jouer avec les grands, ils veulent montrer qu’ils portent leur marque mais d’une façon différente que celle initiale.
Evidemment, ils (ici, Colette) vendaient aussi, et toujours, des marques prestigieuses comme Kenzo, Raf Simons et d’autres, et ce mix de la punk-fashion et Haute-Couture n’a pas marché, et pour certaines raisons vous ne pouvez pas vraiment jouer avec la Haute-Couture comme vous le souhaitez, ça a ses propres règles que vous devez suivre, autrement vous n’êtes pas juste un rebelle, vous êtes un idiot et un revendeur irrespectueux (même si le respect est un luxe de nos jours je le reconnais). La punition arrive, Hedi a pris sa décision, virer Colette de la liste, et commencer à redonner un peu de son autorité à la Haute-Couture, et aussi de choisir si vous pouvez faire ce que bon vous semble avec ou non. Hedi, ici, ne fait que se ré-affirmer, il n’en est pas là aujourd’hui uniquement par chance, il l’a mérité. Ce genre de fastjunk-fashion donne aussi la possibilité à tout le monde de pouvoir être dans le mouvement, être “in”, et ce, même si ils n’y connaissent rien à propos de la maison, oui c’est français, oui c’est Yves Saint Laurent, et ensuite? Ah, oui, rien, c’est juste tendance et pas cher alors pourquoi ne pas le porter? “Je veux rentrer dans le moule”, qui est une citation du film American Psycho, c’est exactement ce qu’il se passe ici, ils souhaitent juste être dans le moule, et ce, même si ils ressemblent à des idiots. Je suis vraiment pressé de voir plus des slogans sur Ghesquière/MarcJacobs ou encore Raf Simons, c’est tellement raffiné.
Designed by Rei Kawakubo, this new collection from Comme des Garçons is the result of the house, unstructured and totally apart form the human body. Sometimes you can feel an harmony with the body like a symbiosis but not on this catwalk. Each outfit is only carried by a model and there is no accord, the model is like a prisoner, like a doll from her dress. At some points she reminds me of Thom Browne, they both don’t really think about ease and “wearability”, they just do what they like, what they think about how to achieve what they want to show. This is a huge advantage that Rei holds, because she does not play with the whole marketing and trendy thing that remains outside the catwalk and in the street, she does not play with money. Of course she mades loads of money, but like an artist she will do her job first and see after that if it works like she thought it would, and like an accomplished artist it will work perfectly. Therefore she did not follow the trend of printed jumpers which invaded the catwalk since at least two years by now, and I am quite happy with that because we need some defiant, who will not give in just because of the greedy marketing aspect of the “brand”, and who will carry on the arty way of thinking of the designers.

Créé par Rei Kawakubo, cette nouvelle collection de Comme Des Garçons n’est que la suite logique de cette maison, dé-structurée et complètement mise à part du corps humain. Parfois il nous arrive de sentir une harmonie entre le corps et la tenue comme une symbiose mais pas dans ce défilé. Chaque tenue est portée par le mannequin et il n’y a pas d’accord, le mannequin est comme prisonnière, un peu comme une poupée de sa robe. Quelque part, elle me rappelle Thom Browne, tous deux ne pensent pas vraiment aux termes d’aisance et de “portabilité”, ils ne font juste que ce qu’ils aiment, ce qu’ils pensent afin de pouvoir obtenir ce qu’ils souhaitent montrer. C’est un énorme avantage que Rei garde, parce que elle ne joue pas avec l’aspect marketing et les tendances qui restent dans la rue et en dehors du défilé, elle ne joue pas avec l’argent. Bien sûr elle en engrange énormément, mais comme un artiste elle va d’abord faire son boulot en premier et observera les conséquences après, et tout comme un artiste accompli ça marchera. De ce fait, elle n’a pas suivi les tendances des imprimés sur les pulls qui n’ont fait qu’envahir les défilés depuis au moins deux ans maintenant, et j’en suis assez content car il faut bien quelques réfractaires, qui ne se plieront pas à une tendance juste pour suivre un plan marketing avide, et qui vont perpétuer l’aspect artistique des créateurs.

H&M, the identity seeker

Hello again, it is now the first of October, therefore, it is time to get back on the track and we will start this year with a small post about the upcoming collaboration by H&M. I think everyone knows by now, that the French designer, Isabel Marant is the next house with which H&M will release a collaboration over this fall, from November. IM is a famous designer for women, from 16 to 35, she targets young and active women living in a city such as Paris or New-York. This collaboration is a safe choice for H&M, but we cannot expect some new wedge sneakers specially designed for H&M which are the best-seller of the House, as  I.Marant said there are too many copycat on the market, and she is right. 

Through this collaboration, H&M shows once more, that this company wants to be more than just a RTW company with basics stuff that you can find in every single RTW store like Zara, Newlook, Primark, … by collaborating with luxury house H&M is a step ahead its main rivals by offering something more than a simple RTW company, this is luxury design at a RTW price. Even if the MMM collab’ didn’t work that well for their customers, compared to this last unknown house for most of them, Isabel Marant is very popular (and also way more affordable than Margiela) therefore I guess that sales will be fine and will find the success that they are looking for. Will Givenchy be the next one? 

EDIT. While I was writing this post, and even after it was ready to be published the menswear collection from this collaboration leaked, so I will publish really soon another post about this collection a bit un-expected as it is the first collection for men from Isabel Marant and I have to say some pieces are quite nice.

Print is back again

Last year we could have seen a massive come back of the print in our wardrobe, and this year carries the previous trend but with a floral touch more related to a sunny spring than a hot summer. From Etro to Burberry the print was on every catwalk. Obviously McQueen does a lot of floral print since many collections but this SS13 is like a meeting by all DA saying yeah let’s do some floral print! Last year I bought a floral jumper from Czech Republic from Aloha From Deer, I was a bit in advance on that trend as last year we saw the print coming back but in a more general way as you can see on this post from May of last year.

After having started this post, the amazing floral print collection by Raf Simons for mr Porter came out. I have nothing else to say, judge by yourself, I could buy the entire collection if I had the money! I already have a floral print jumper from last year but this kind of piece is really nice, we will see if after my summer I can get one (print on navy) jumper or the short!

Inner self’s mask

Quick introduction about the House Alexander McQueen which just got a full-rework of the design of their website which is now just amazing, you can follow different experiences through their videos of collections (you don’t have to look at style.com now! You have everything and even more on their own experience page)

A designer that I really like is Sarah Burton, I cannot say how much I love her work, sadly she stills in the shadow of Lee, obviously she cannot have the same fame as Raf or Slimane but she is playing at the same level. From her last collections at Alexander McQueen as his successor she made an amazing work and something really caught my attention, in every season collection (so excluding Pre-Fall and Cruise) models have their head covered by a mask. An example picked among past collections (from right to left) AW12, AW13 and SS12. I would have an idea of the why, as we all know that in Fashion the arty side of the DA are really important and we know that Lee was really special, like a butterfly stuck in his cocoon (is that why we can find so many times the butterfly print?). I will not try to relate it to the death of L.McQueen but I can imagine that this trend is there to carry an idea, a phenomenon that sometimes you cannot fully express yourself through your creation, your are trapped by your environment.

(from right to left) SS12 (yes another one), SS13 and an example of the PAW12 that I really like and which confirm this trend inside the house to wear a mask only for the core collection. When Lee was still alive he covered some models with a hat covering the whole head of the model but not all of them just few for each catwalk, and now S.Burton is covering every single head which will pass through the catwalk. 

Playlist #2

As I said, here is my Playlist #2 for this week:

Thomas
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