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Archive for the ‘Alexander McQueen’ Category

So there we are, these new collections are for some of them a real surprise and continue on the path they took since the last catwalk (no surprise for McQueen which is for me the best designer of this season), I am also quite happy with Gucci and Louis Vuitton which played on some greats and originals pattern. I have selected 4 looks that I really like, in fact I wanted just 3 of them but I could not decide of which one I had to let down so I put them all. The red is back.

Alexander McQueen :
I have nothing to say about this collection, the whole creation took my breath away, all these patterns are so well-mastered that it is a perfect for me. The first look could remind me the AW12 by Primark but  at 200floors above. The look 1 & 2 are my favourite, maybe because I love that kind of combination  between colours, white/black and red/black.
Balenciaga :
I really enjoy this collection as it brings a casual fresh-air to this market – I would not wear the outfit like that but i would take a piece of each and wear them on their own. 
Givenchy :
Even if I liked this collection, I am a bit disappointed by the fact that Tisci re-build this collection on the last one without many changes. So as I said most of these collections took the same way than the last season but at least some of them, even with the same breath they made it different and on this one I do not think that I look at a different collection.
Gucci :
This collection is awesome, I really encourage you to see the whole collection because I was really torn while I was selecting what look to put online. It is really classic, this is Gucci, but with an Italian touch, these looks 1 & 3 are really what I was waiting from them, this collection is more about Gucci than the last one for me.
Louis Vuitton :

After an impressive SS13 collection, this AW13 just finished the work for this year. Again we find some amazing patterns among this collection and some minimal pieces which balance the whole thing. My favourite looks are the first and the third one, I am really into pattern for this season I do not know why but at least I got some good looks to look at.
Lanvin :

I wanted to show you this Lanvin collection, a bit quirky for me and not really how I see the House, but still quite interesting with the fourth look and the second one, I do not really know how to explain my point of view on these looks but I like them.

During this week my selection for the menswear will be online soon, and more.

Cheers,

Thomas

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These last couple of days I read on many websites and blog comments talking about the collaboration between Maison Martin Margiela and H&M. I just want to share my point of view on this collaboration and the situation of the House. 

Firstly I would like to introduce to you the quality of the collaboration from H&M. I heard someone says it was “buying some fake MMM at a cheap price & shit quality”, funny to heard that because at that point MMM is not what it was when Martin was there. Then, the quality of H&M is not the best I have to admit, but for the price is one of the best option you have, no surprise you pay for what you get. Moreover the “fake” term is a bit too strong as the collection is not identical to the original, each piece has been modified at some point to be slightly different from the original, of course it will be hard to make the difference but there is one (like a true LV bag and a fake one … ;) ). We find again the particular shape and volume from masculine shapes adjusted to the female body like narrow shoulder jackets and bikers. Process of tailoring remains traditional finishings and materials with sartorial edge, they also play again on the ambiguity as seen in trompe l’oeil tops (the one with the “bra”), bodysuits, and accessories (the little bag with the “gloves” handle). This is not MMM nor H&M, this is a H&M x MMM label ; like the H&M x Marni (or x Versace , by the way I prefer those collaboration than this new one) which is a different collection from the whole company so with different expectations and better than the normal H&M label.

Secondly, I would like to talk about the House, we know that at these times the Maison is not doing well, every collections after each new season are just a better failure than the last one. So when the collaboration was announced I was one of those who were against this association as anyone will know Maison Martin Margiela. Obviously it will allow the House to be more famous but also it will lose some mystery. As the The House is dying – it will please Mr. Rosso that this collaboration could increase their sales as MMM will affect a bigger market than its current segmentation. But to come along with the first part of this paragraph – this collaboration is also a tribute. A tribute to the last collections of MMM when the House was what it was, made with the Martin’s spirit, inimitable and artistically unique.

Sadly I would like to compare MMM to Alexander Mc.Queen – two tragic fates, two new heads but too different ways taken, opposite. Sarah Burton is the Alexander’s heir, she could understood what he wanted to do and what he could have done if he was alive, she is doing an amazing job (Breaking news: A tailoring store A.Mcqueen has opened its doors on Savile Row which was one of the most important wishes of Lee Alexander McQueen as we wanted to push further the menswear tailoring). Unfortunately  Martin did not have the same chance.

Ces derniers jours j’ai pu lire beaucoup de commentaires sur des forums et des blogs concernant la collaboration entre H&M et Mais Martin Margiela. Je souhaite juste partager mon point de vue sur la collaboration et la situation de la maison.

Premièrement je voudrais vous introduire à la qualité de cette collaboration car j’ai pu lire que ça ne servait à rien d’acheter du faux Margiela à une qualité plus que douteuse pour un prix dérisoire (un peu drôle venant de la part de pur(e)s fashionistos/as alors que la Maison n’est plus celle d’avant, Martin n’est pas parti les mains vides). La qualité d’H&M n’est pas la meilleure je dois l’avouer, mais vous payez pour ce qu’on vous donne et pour ce prix là vous n’avez pas d’autres alternatives pour une qualité décente. De plus je trouve l’emploi du terme “faux” un peu osé puisque toutes les pièces ne sont pas des copies conformes à l’originale mais sont légèrement modifiées par le créateur et H&M (un peu comme un vrai sac Louis Vuitton et un faux … ;) ). Il faut se rappeler que ce n’est pas un label MMM ou H&M mais un nouveau label H&M x MMM; tout comme H&M x Marni ou avec Versace (soit dit en passant, je préfère largement ces deux anciennes collaborations). Donc un nouveau label, avec de nouvelles attentes aussi, comme sur la fabrication par exemple.

En deuxième partie, j’aimerais vous parler de la maison en elle-même, on sait qu’en ce moment ça ne va pas très bien, chaque collections est encore pire que la précédente (à moindres mesures mais on le sent.) Alors quand la collaboration a été annoncée j’étais parmi les premiers à être “contre” cette association car de ce fait tout le monde connaître Maison Martin Margiela et comme je l’ai déjà dit dans un précédent article, son prestige un peu mystérieux en prend un sacré coup. Comme la maison se meurt cela va plaire à Mr. Rosso que cette collab’ puisse augmenter les ventes de MMM car sa porté affectera du coup un plus grand marché que son actuel, assez fermé. Mais pour relier la première partie à celle-ci, je pense que cette collaboration est une sorte d’hommage. Un hommage aux collections passées, quand la maison avait encore toute sa tête, inimitable et artistiquement unique.

J’aimerais comparer MMM avec Alexander Mc.Queen (les maisons) – deux destins plutôt tragiques, deux nouvelles têtes mais deux directions prises totalement opposées. Sarah Burton est l’héritière de Lee (d’ailleurs boutique pour homme de couture (costume, tailoring) s’est ouverte à Savile Row, qui était un de ses souhaits le plus cher pour la maison, car Lee Alexander McQueen souhaitait pousser plus loin la branche sartorial pour homme) , elle a pu comprendre ce qu’il voulait, ce qu’il aurait pu faire si il était toujours parmi nous, elle fait un travail remarquable et arrive à pousser la maison vers le haut. Malheureusement Martin n’a pas eu la même chance.

Cheers,
Thomas
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Baroque ( adj, m.): The Baroque is a period of artistic style that used exaggerated motion and clear, easily interpreted detail to produce drama, tension, exuberance, and grandeur in sculpture, painting, architecture, literature, dance, and music.

Alexander McQueen
Today I would like to introduce you to a very old artistic style that I particularly like. The Baroque style, which developed from the 17th century up until the 18th century throughout Europe, is characterised by its abundance of details, its grandeur in culture, its striking contrasts of colours in paintings and more generally its tendency for grandiose displays. It seems to be a difficult task to master such energy without losing its essence. I believe only talent and devotion can revive this art, and thanks to the valuable know-how of designers it has resurfaced today, heralding a tendency for the baroque spirit this winter. This end of year is marked by the remarkable collection of both menswear and womenswear AW12 by Balmain. But although the prices remain inaccessible for most people, you can still have a look at their look-books to find some inspiration. Or, the other option is to wait patiently for THE discount on THEOUTNET. 
There is another way to find that kind of clothes easily: just type the label “Baroque” in the search bar on the Fashiolista website to find plenty of clothes labelled “Baroque” by bloggers. I have already done the research for you on that link (even on Topshop, here). Also do have a look at Vogue which has released a list of twenty accessories and shoes in that style, which gives us more ideas & inspiration to finish an outfit. Obviously it has to be exaggerated, in terms of brilliance, precious stones, colours etc; therefore the most important adjective has to be outrageousness. Do not hesitate to walk in some vintage stores, you will find a lot of interesting stuff there!

As you can see, everything is details. It is indeed one of the key features of the Baroque style; hence details can turn a banal piece into something exceptional. From embroideries to shining pearls, it is an excess of details which will give your piece a “baroque” touch. Even though it is a bit too blue for me, I would like to introduce you to the new collaboration between H&M and Anna Dello Russo. Skip the blingbling sunglasses but have a look at the earrings, necklaces & rings, for some of them are in the baroque spirit.  

Balmain AW12 Backstage

Balmain (again) @stormfashion.dk
Balmain AW12

Aujourd’hui j’aimerais vous presenter un style artistique centenaire que j’apprécie tout particulièrement. Le style Baroque, qui se développe au cours des 17ème et 18ème siècles, se caractérise par une surcharge décorative, des contrastes de couleurs frappants dans ses peintures et d’une manière générale par une tendance pour l’exubérance. Il me semble difficile de dompter une telle énergie sans en perdre l’essence. Je pense que seuls talent et dévotion peuvent raviver cet art et grâce au précieux savoir-faire des créateurs, il refait aujourd’hui surface, annonçant donc une vague baroque pour cet hiver. Une fin d’année notamment marquée par la remarquable collection homme et femme AW12 de chez Balmain. Même si les prix restent inaccessibles pour un bon nombre de personnes, vous pouvez toujours jeter un coup d’œil à leurs look-books et vous en inspirer. Autre solution : attendre patiemment LA fameuse réduction sur THEOUTNET. 
Il existe un autre moyen de trouver ce style de vêtements facilement : il suffit jute d’entrer le mot-clé « baroque » dans la barre de recherche du site Fashiolista pour découvrir tous les vêtements de cette catégorie. J’ai déjà réalisé la recherche pour vous sur ce lien (et aussi sur Topshop, ici). Aussi n’hésitez pas à chercher sur Vogue qui a établi une petite liste de vingt accessoires et chaussures dans ce style, ce qui nous donne encore quelques idées et un peu d’inspiration pour terminer une tenue. Evidemment tout se doit d’être exagéré, en termes d’éclat, de pierres « précieuses », de couleurs etc ; l’adjectif clé est donc « outrance ». N’hésitez pas non plus à faire un tour dans les boutiques vintage, vous y trouverez de nombreuses choses intéressantes ! 


Comme vous pouvez le constater, tout est dans le détail. C’est la clé du mouvement, le détail peut transformer votre pièce simple et banale en quelque chose d’exceptionnel. De la broderie à la perle scintillante, c’est donc un excès du détail qui attribuera à votre pièce un esprit « baroque ». Même si c’est un peu trop bleu pour moi, je voudrais vous présenter la nouvelle collaboration entre H&M et Anna Dello Russo. Passez les lunettes blingbling et regardez plutôt du côté des boucles d’oreilles, bagues et colliers qui ont un esprit plus baroque.

Cheers,
Thomas,
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The Fashion Week is running well this year and we know now what is going to be in store next year. As I would like to present you my world, I have picked my three favourite outfits of each of my favourite designers. Enjoy:

Alexander McQueen

Burberry Prorsum


Dior

Gucci

Hermès

Louis Vuitton

Prada

Ralph Lauren

Thom Browne

Tommy Hilfiger

Cheers,

Thomas

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