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Archive for the ‘HM’ Category

Hello again, it is now the first of October, therefore, it is time to get back on the track and we will start this year with a small post about the upcoming collaboration by H&M. I think everyone knows by now, that the French designer, Isabel Marant is the next house with which H&M will release a collaboration over this fall, from November. IM is a famous designer for women, from 16 to 35, she targets young and active women living in a city such as Paris or New-York. This collaboration is a safe choice for H&M, but we cannot expect some new wedge sneakers specially designed for H&M which are the best-seller of the House, as  I.Marant said there are too many copycat on the market, and she is right. 

Through this collaboration, H&M shows once more, that this company wants to be more than just a RTW company with basics stuff that you can find in every single RTW store like Zara, Newlook, Primark, … by collaborating with luxury house H&M is a step ahead its main rivals by offering something more than a simple RTW company, this is luxury design at a RTW price. Even if the MMM collab’ didn’t work that well for their customers, compared to this last unknown house for most of them, Isabel Marant is very popular (and also way more affordable than Margiela) therefore I guess that sales will be fine and will find the success that they are looking for. Will Givenchy be the next one? 

EDIT. While I was writing this post, and even after it was ready to be published the menswear collection from this collaboration leaked, so I will publish really soon another post about this collection a bit un-expected as it is the first collection for men from Isabel Marant and I have to say some pieces are quite nice.

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At this time, the ecological problem is hitting us, consuming in the fashion world is one of the best way to waste our resources through buying a new wardrobe each new season. We know that a lot of companies are now looking for some eco-friendly solutions to avoid the bad image of someone who does not care about our environment. I am not telling that is the only way of thinking of these companies but it takes a good percentage of it. So we have H&M, which decided to launch is own Recycle operation starting from February 2013. 

“Our sustainability efforts are rooted in a dedication to social and environmental responsibility. We want to do good for the environment, which is why we are now offering our customers a convenient solution: to be able to leave their worn out or defective garments with H&M.” –  CEO Karl-Johan Persson

Therefore for each bag of old clothes (any brands) that you bring to a store you can claim a £5 voucher valid over 6 months (you have to spend at least £30 to redeem it).

The Conscious collection of HM is only made with environmentally sustainable materials (such as recycled polyester). According to H&M, as much as 95 percent of these clothes could be used again; re-worn, reused or recycled. That is a good way to recycle all the items from the last collections which are not trendy anymore. 

“H&M said the scheme was part of its wider sustainability push, which aims to develop a “closed loop” for textile fibres that would drastically reduce the environmental impact of new garments.” – BusinessGreen

The only thing that we can say at the moment it is to wish them good luck with those directives, noble and trendy, a good way to ensure their future.
Cheers,

Thomas
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These last couple of days I read on many websites and blog comments talking about the collaboration between Maison Martin Margiela and H&M. I just want to share my point of view on this collaboration and the situation of the House. 

Firstly I would like to introduce to you the quality of the collaboration from H&M. I heard someone says it was “buying some fake MMM at a cheap price & shit quality”, funny to heard that because at that point MMM is not what it was when Martin was there. Then, the quality of H&M is not the best I have to admit, but for the price is one of the best option you have, no surprise you pay for what you get. Moreover the “fake” term is a bit too strong as the collection is not identical to the original, each piece has been modified at some point to be slightly different from the original, of course it will be hard to make the difference but there is one (like a true LV bag and a fake one … ;) ). We find again the particular shape and volume from masculine shapes adjusted to the female body like narrow shoulder jackets and bikers. Process of tailoring remains traditional finishings and materials with sartorial edge, they also play again on the ambiguity as seen in trompe l’oeil tops (the one with the “bra”), bodysuits, and accessories (the little bag with the “gloves” handle). This is not MMM nor H&M, this is a H&M x MMM label ; like the H&M x Marni (or x Versace , by the way I prefer those collaboration than this new one) which is a different collection from the whole company so with different expectations and better than the normal H&M label.

Secondly, I would like to talk about the House, we know that at these times the Maison is not doing well, every collections after each new season are just a better failure than the last one. So when the collaboration was announced I was one of those who were against this association as anyone will know Maison Martin Margiela. Obviously it will allow the House to be more famous but also it will lose some mystery. As the The House is dying – it will please Mr. Rosso that this collaboration could increase their sales as MMM will affect a bigger market than its current segmentation. But to come along with the first part of this paragraph – this collaboration is also a tribute. A tribute to the last collections of MMM when the House was what it was, made with the Martin’s spirit, inimitable and artistically unique.

Sadly I would like to compare MMM to Alexander Mc.Queen – two tragic fates, two new heads but too different ways taken, opposite. Sarah Burton is the Alexander’s heir, she could understood what he wanted to do and what he could have done if he was alive, she is doing an amazing job (Breaking news: A tailoring store A.Mcqueen has opened its doors on Savile Row which was one of the most important wishes of Lee Alexander McQueen as we wanted to push further the menswear tailoring). Unfortunately  Martin did not have the same chance.

Ces derniers jours j’ai pu lire beaucoup de commentaires sur des forums et des blogs concernant la collaboration entre H&M et Mais Martin Margiela. Je souhaite juste partager mon point de vue sur la collaboration et la situation de la maison.

Premièrement je voudrais vous introduire à la qualité de cette collaboration car j’ai pu lire que ça ne servait à rien d’acheter du faux Margiela à une qualité plus que douteuse pour un prix dérisoire (un peu drôle venant de la part de pur(e)s fashionistos/as alors que la Maison n’est plus celle d’avant, Martin n’est pas parti les mains vides). La qualité d’H&M n’est pas la meilleure je dois l’avouer, mais vous payez pour ce qu’on vous donne et pour ce prix là vous n’avez pas d’autres alternatives pour une qualité décente. De plus je trouve l’emploi du terme “faux” un peu osé puisque toutes les pièces ne sont pas des copies conformes à l’originale mais sont légèrement modifiées par le créateur et H&M (un peu comme un vrai sac Louis Vuitton et un faux … ;) ). Il faut se rappeler que ce n’est pas un label MMM ou H&M mais un nouveau label H&M x MMM; tout comme H&M x Marni ou avec Versace (soit dit en passant, je préfère largement ces deux anciennes collaborations). Donc un nouveau label, avec de nouvelles attentes aussi, comme sur la fabrication par exemple.

En deuxième partie, j’aimerais vous parler de la maison en elle-même, on sait qu’en ce moment ça ne va pas très bien, chaque collections est encore pire que la précédente (à moindres mesures mais on le sent.) Alors quand la collaboration a été annoncée j’étais parmi les premiers à être “contre” cette association car de ce fait tout le monde connaître Maison Martin Margiela et comme je l’ai déjà dit dans un précédent article, son prestige un peu mystérieux en prend un sacré coup. Comme la maison se meurt cela va plaire à Mr. Rosso que cette collab’ puisse augmenter les ventes de MMM car sa porté affectera du coup un plus grand marché que son actuel, assez fermé. Mais pour relier la première partie à celle-ci, je pense que cette collaboration est une sorte d’hommage. Un hommage aux collections passées, quand la maison avait encore toute sa tête, inimitable et artistiquement unique.

J’aimerais comparer MMM avec Alexander Mc.Queen (les maisons) – deux destins plutôt tragiques, deux nouvelles têtes mais deux directions prises totalement opposées. Sarah Burton est l’héritière de Lee (d’ailleurs boutique pour homme de couture (costume, tailoring) s’est ouverte à Savile Row, qui était un de ses souhaits le plus cher pour la maison, car Lee Alexander McQueen souhaitait pousser plus loin la branche sartorial pour homme) , elle a pu comprendre ce qu’il voulait, ce qu’il aurait pu faire si il était toujours parmi nous, elle fait un travail remarquable et arrive à pousser la maison vers le haut. Malheureusement Martin n’a pas eu la même chance.

Cheers,
Thomas
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Are you tired of wearing your Quechua Bag Pack or Eastpak? Do you feel uncomfortable carrying your precious stuff (mobile, keys, wallet, notebook …) in a bag which does not match your style? Now this issue has gone far away as the menswear revolution ran pretty well and (finally!) enabled us to compete with women (ok maybe not on the amount of bags!). From Filson, Herschel and Hard Graft to Prada, Burberry, Louis Vuitton & Gucci you will find one or a hundred bags which will fit your hands. From the Tote model to the Back Pack, including the briefcase, you can now have one for each outfit that you want, working suits, casual outfits… Let’s change your bag into a murse.
Vous êtes fatigués de porter votre sac Quechua ou votre Eastpak? Vous n’appréciez plus transporter vos précieux accessoires (mobile, clés, portefeuille, agenda…) dans un sac qui ne s’accorde pas avec votre style? Maintenant, ce problème n’en est plus un, la révolution masculine s’étant très bien déroulée et nous permettant (enfin !) de rivaliser avec les femmes (bon peut-être pas sur le nombre de sac !). De Filson, Herschel et Hard Graft, à Prada, Burberry, Louis Vuitton & Gucci vous pouvez désormais choisir parmi un grand nombre de modèles celui ou ceux qui vous conviennent. Du modèle Tote bag au sac à dos, en passant par le porte-document, vous pouvez maintenant en avoir un de chaque pour accompagner vos tenues, pour le travail, pour le dimanche, ou tout simplement pour sortir entre ami(e)s.
Tote bag & Briefcase

Nick Wooster and his tote.

Filson 256 in Green
Obviously it will all depend on what use you want to make of it: a day at the office or a family week-end? Fancy some shopping? Carrying your laptop to your lecture? Regarding the latter option, as far as I am concerned, I would recommend a Filson 256 in Dark Tan, pretty handy to fit in my 13″ Macbook, a notepad and a few pens. But what I am looking for now is a back pack (and a weekender) which will remain much more comfortable and prevent any pains in one shoulder or the other. A few months ago I discovered a Korean brand named CUSTOMELLOW, rather interesting but unluckily and sadly they do not (yet) deliver in Europe/Asia/America/Africa. So I have resigned myself to my fate and kept searching, for I do not have enough money to spend on any of the new Burberry collection anyway. So I might just try and find something in H&M, Topman, River Island or L&S. Any idea where I could find leather bag similar to the Burberry’s?
Evidemment, le modèle dépendra de l’usage que vous voulez en faire : journée de travail ou week-end? Séance shopping? Transporter votre ordinateur portable en cours? Pour cette dernière option, en ce qui me concerne, je possède un Filson 256 en Dark Tan, très pratique pour transporter mon mb 13″ avec un bloc-notes et quelques stylos. Mais je suis actuellement à la recherche d’un sac à dos, qui restera tout de même bien plus confortable, même à partir d’un certain poids et qui évitera les douleurs dans une épaule ou dans l’autre. Il y a quelques mois, j’ai découvert une marque Coréenne nommée CUSTOMELLOW, très intéressante certes, mais le souci, c’est qu’ils ne livrent pas encore à l’étranger… Je dois donc prendre mon mal en patience et continuer mes recherches! Et comme je n’ai pas encore assez d’argent à dépenser dans un modèle de la nouvelle collection de Burberry, je pense peut-être me tourner vers H&M, Topman ou encore River Island et L&S. Auriez-vous une idée d’où trouver un modèle en cuir, un peu comme dans le style du Burberry?
Cheers,
Thomas,
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If you follow me on twitter you should know now that H&M will be releasing its new collection in collaboration with the French House Maison Martin Margiela on Nov 15, 2012. MMM has always been more discreet on the ready-to-wear market than is H&M today, and this is why i’m not so exited about this collaboration: MMM will gain in popularity among young people, which, as far as i’m concerned, means a certain loss of prestige.

So how will the collection reflect the characteristics of the two brands? If you know a little about MMM, you would expect some unstructured cuts which retain a very fluid and elegant style. In terms of colours, black and white are to be expected as well as other rather neutral tones such as sand. We could expect something maybe more basic as HM usually does but we know from its collab with Versace or Lanvin that they want to keep the essence of the House in their capsule collection. What HM can bring else to MMM? Apart this gain of popularity- it could bring a luxury collection at a low range of price which could bring some new customers to the main brand of Margiela.
I went to one of my favourite shops in Toulouse yesterday and was surprised to see how bad the stock actually is – only three different tops in small size and a few pairs of white sneakers; but because sales have just started, their shoes were 50% off! Attractive opportunity you might say… But I remained wise and reasonable, I do not need any sneakers.

Men video and Women video

Cheers,

Thomas

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