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Archive for the ‘Saint Laurent Paris’ Category

It is not the first nor the last but still a pretty big player in the game which has been isolated; Colette has been hit by Slimane’s wrath in the face, and it is going to hurt, very very badly. Hedi decided to blacklisted Collette from their retailer, the “famous” store which made its own name (except apart being a good designers boutique) by surfing on the hype wave with streetwear brands like Supreme combined to a small stock marketing. Recently joined by random tees worn by celebrities like Cara Delevingne or others, copying luxurious brand but through a poor label and a poor headline. They (we do not talk about early-adopters here haha) wear it to be “in” the movement, teasing the Haute-Couture’s sphere of the Haute-Couture, because they want to play with the lions, they want to show them that they are wearing their brand but in another way that the designers want it.
Obviously they (here, Colette) were also selling luxurious brand like Kenzo, Raf Simons and others, and this mix of junk-fashion and Haute-Couture messed up, for some reason you cannot really play with the HC as you want, it has its own rules that you have to follow, otherwise you’re not just being a rebel, you’re becoming a fool and a cheeky reseller (even though respect is a luxe nowadays).  There comes the punishment, Hedi took his decision, kicking Colette out the list, and starting to re-give to the whole Haute-Couture its rights, and to decide if you can do what you want with it or not. Hedi, here, is just doing his job, re-affirming himself, he is not where he is now just by luck, he earned it. This kind of junk-fashion gives also the possibility for everyone to be “in” the move, even if they do not know anything about the house, yes it is French, yes it is Yves Saint Laurent, and then? Ah yeah, then nothing, it is trendy so why would I not wear it “I want to fit in”, quote from American Psycho, that is exactly what is happening here, they just want to fit in, even though they look like idiots. I cannot wait to see some more Ghesquière/Marc Jacobs/Simons related shitty headlines.

Ce n’est pas la première fois, ni la dernière fois que cela arrive mais un gros joueur a été mit sur la touche; Colette s’est prit la colère de Slimane en pleine face et ça va faire mal, très très mal. Hedi a décidé de blacklisté Colette de leurs revendeurs, la fameuse boutique qui s’est fait son nom (à part le fait que c’était une bonne boutique de vêtement de designers) en surfant sur la vague de hype autour des marques streetwear comme Supreme mélangé avec un marketing pratiquant un stock assez léger. Récemment rejoints par des t-shirts portés par des célébrités comme Cara Delevingne et d’autres, copiant les marques grandes maisons mais à travers un label très pauvre et souvent un slogan assez décevant. La masse (ne parlons pas d’early-adopters s’il vous plaît haha) les porte pour être “in”, provoquant la sphère de la Haute-Couture, parce que ils veulent aussi jouer avec les grands, ils veulent montrer qu’ils portent leur marque mais d’une façon différente que celle initiale.
Evidemment, ils (ici, Colette) vendaient aussi, et toujours, des marques prestigieuses comme Kenzo, Raf Simons et d’autres, et ce mix de la punk-fashion et Haute-Couture n’a pas marché, et pour certaines raisons vous ne pouvez pas vraiment jouer avec la Haute-Couture comme vous le souhaitez, ça a ses propres règles que vous devez suivre, autrement vous n’êtes pas juste un rebelle, vous êtes un idiot et un revendeur irrespectueux (même si le respect est un luxe de nos jours je le reconnais). La punition arrive, Hedi a pris sa décision, virer Colette de la liste, et commencer à redonner un peu de son autorité à la Haute-Couture, et aussi de choisir si vous pouvez faire ce que bon vous semble avec ou non. Hedi, ici, ne fait que se ré-affirmer, il n’en est pas là aujourd’hui uniquement par chance, il l’a mérité. Ce genre de fastjunk-fashion donne aussi la possibilité à tout le monde de pouvoir être dans le mouvement, être “in”, et ce, même si ils n’y connaissent rien à propos de la maison, oui c’est français, oui c’est Yves Saint Laurent, et ensuite? Ah, oui, rien, c’est juste tendance et pas cher alors pourquoi ne pas le porter? “Je veux rentrer dans le moule”, qui est une citation du film American Psycho, c’est exactement ce qu’il se passe ici, ils souhaitent juste être dans le moule, et ce, même si ils ressemblent à des idiots. Je suis vraiment pressé de voir plus des slogans sur Ghesquière/MarcJacobs ou encore Raf Simons, c’est tellement raffiné.
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This image was haunting the Fashion sphere for at least 2 months, “Fashion” critics and “journalists” enjoyed that moment as they could write roughly everything they wanted about Slimane because he did not follow the line, he crossed it. We were used to see each new DA to follow the line of the house with a touch of creativity from their own hand, but no, Slimane put his whole soul in the new collections of Yves Saint Laurent, starting by re-naming the house to Saint Laurent Paris. The way of using the new name properly is still a bit vague so we will be careful about that.
The first collection he did, was inspired from an old collection by YSL in the last 40 years, some fashion critics (yes apparently it is a job but qualifications for that job still gloomy) just wrote how bad Slimane was, no-skill, no-creativity, no-alotofthing. I am not going to link to any post on the internet  but if you have a look on BoF (for example) you will find them, I don’t want the author to ask me to remove the truth about their mistakes. So maybe yes, he was inspired by this collection and what? Even if he is not my favourite designer, you can easily see that some collection from others are sometimes inspired from another collection or from the same inspirations (a bit tricky but I meant the same source). So where is the line? Are we restricted as a DA to do what people are expecting from us? Or can we (as a DA) just surprise them? Is it not the job of DA allowing us to judge if it is a good one or not?
In fact I just wanted to share with you four looks that I liked from his last collection, we find once again the rock’n roll and glamour detail, dear to Hedi (yes his degree got in Paris endowed him with this touch).
Cheers,

Thomas
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