Archive for the ‘SS14’ Category

The S/S14 just happened in Milan, and it was time for Prada to show its new collection, was it going to be like the two lasts show, where shadows and mysteries incensed the catwalk? No, this time Miuccia smashed the front row with colours and a pop-art touch that you cannot deny.  She is an artist even though through her life she went through a more casual way of thinking by acting for the communist party in Milan. We find the whole pop-art panel mix, no faded colours, but strong and living ones, each colour has its own complementary colour, red/green, blue/yellow if it is not on one piece it will be on the whole outfit. 
That is it, each new catwalk is a brand new world set up by Miuccia, involving artists and architects in backstage to make it complete, the most important one is Ippolito Pestellini Laparelli, she makes a new world to allow her new pieces to live in their own world, that makes the piece :

“It is a very osmotic process: we start identifying the stage and set design at the same moment the design team start the identification of the collection. We begin with a workshop of creative thinking where we explore the concept of the show, and from then on it is an eight to ten week process of back and forth.” – I.P.Laparelli

Few elements can remind us our beloved designer, Raf Simons, he is a real fan of Miuccia’s work, she is an inspiration for him, that is why we may find some relative element in both Dior and Prada colour’s panel, pink, purple, green and blue they are all also well-used by Simons.
Another thing would be the use of high-socks to get an outfit a bit more sporty and to counter the idea of the classic luxury in this business, allowing Miuccia to play more with colours. Look at the ribbons, which gives, along the sporty touch, a comfy feeling about this luxurious collection, more casual and relax than the cold luxurious standard view that we can have of Prada and others. 

Mr.Rizzo is the stylist of Miuccia, he is, therefore, putting the garnments together, I would say, he brings them to life on one body, walking around the new world especially made for them. These pieces are extremely difficult to match and mix with a basic wardrobe, but you can play with it and have a lot of fun if you can follow the côté-décalé of this pop-Italian line.

Read Full Post »

Designed by Rei Kawakubo, this new collection from Comme des Garçons is the result of the house, unstructured and totally apart form the human body. Sometimes you can feel an harmony with the body like a symbiosis but not on this catwalk. Each outfit is only carried by a model and there is no accord, the model is like a prisoner, like a doll from her dress. At some points she reminds me of Thom Browne, they both don’t really think about ease and “wearability”, they just do what they like, what they think about how to achieve what they want to show. This is a huge advantage that Rei holds, because she does not play with the whole marketing and trendy thing that remains outside the catwalk and in the street, she does not play with money. Of course she mades loads of money, but like an artist she will do her job first and see after that if it works like she thought it would, and like an accomplished artist it will work perfectly. Therefore she did not follow the trend of printed jumpers which invaded the catwalk since at least two years by now, and I am quite happy with that because we need some defiant, who will not give in just because of the greedy marketing aspect of the “brand”, and who will carry on the arty way of thinking of the designers.

Créé par Rei Kawakubo, cette nouvelle collection de Comme Des Garçons n’est que la suite logique de cette maison, dé-structurée et complètement mise à part du corps humain. Parfois il nous arrive de sentir une harmonie entre le corps et la tenue comme une symbiose mais pas dans ce défilé. Chaque tenue est portée par le mannequin et il n’y a pas d’accord, le mannequin est comme prisonnière, un peu comme une poupée de sa robe. Quelque part, elle me rappelle Thom Browne, tous deux ne pensent pas vraiment aux termes d’aisance et de “portabilité”, ils ne font juste que ce qu’ils aiment, ce qu’ils pensent afin de pouvoir obtenir ce qu’ils souhaitent montrer. C’est un énorme avantage que Rei garde, parce que elle ne joue pas avec l’aspect marketing et les tendances qui restent dans la rue et en dehors du défilé, elle ne joue pas avec l’argent. Bien sûr elle en engrange énormément, mais comme un artiste elle va d’abord faire son boulot en premier et observera les conséquences après, et tout comme un artiste accompli ça marchera. De ce fait, elle n’a pas suivi les tendances des imprimés sur les pulls qui n’ont fait qu’envahir les défilés depuis au moins deux ans maintenant, et j’en suis assez content car il faut bien quelques réfractaires, qui ne se plieront pas à une tendance juste pour suivre un plan marketing avide, et qui vont perpétuer l’aspect artistique des créateurs.

Read Full Post »